Figure 8-34.-Metal ties.
Install flashing at any spot where moisture is
likely to enter a brick masonry structure. Flashing
diverts the moisture back outside.
flashing under horizontal masonry surfaces, such as
sills and copings; at intersections between masonry
walls and horizontal surfaces, such as a roof and
parapet or a roof and chimney; above openings (doors
and windows, for example); and frequently at floor
lines, depending on the type of construction. The
flashing should extend through the exterior wall face
and then turn downward against the wall face to form
You should provide weep holes at intervals of 18
to 24 inches to drain water to the outside that might
accumulate on the flashing. Weep holes are even
more important when appearance requires the
flashing to stop behind the wall face instead of
extending through the wall. This type of concealed
flashing, when combined with tooled mortar joints,
often retains water in the wall for long periods and, by
concentrating the moisture at one spot, does more
harm than good.
MORTAR JOINTS AND POINTING
There is no set rule governing the thickness of a
brick masonry mortar joint. Irregularly shaped bricks
may require mortar joints up to 1/2 inch thick to
compensate for the irregularities. However, mortar
joints 1/4 inch thick are the strongest. Use this
thickness when the bricks are regular enough in shape
to permit it.
A slushed joint is made simply by depositing the
mortar on top of the head joints and allowing it to run
down between the bricks to form a joint. You cannot
make solid joints this way. Even if you fill the space
between the bricks completely, there is no way you
can compact the mortar against the brick faces;
consequent y a poor bond results. The only effective
way to build a good joint is to trowel it.
The secret of mortar joint construction and
pointing is in how you hold the trowel for spreading
mortar. Figure 8-35 shows the correct way to hold a
trowel. Hold it firmly in the grip shown, with your
Figure 8-35.-Correct way to hold a trowel.