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Builder 3&2 Volume 02 - Construction manual for building structures
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studs, and the total effective penetration into the wood should be at least 1 1/2 inches. For example, 3/8-inch plywood siding over 3/4-inch wood sheathing would require a 7d nail (which is 2 1/4 inches long). This would result in a 1 1/8-inch penetration into the stud, but a total effective  penetration  of  1  7/8  inches  into  the  wood sheathing. The joints of all types of sheet material should be caulked  with  mastic  unless  the  joints  are  of  the interlapping or matched type of battens. It is a good practice to place a strip of 15-pound asphalt felt under joints. CORNER  COVERINGS The outside corners of a wood-framed structure can be  finished  in  several  ways.  Siding  boards  can  be miter-joined at the corners. Shingles can be edge-lapped alternately. The ends of siding boards can be butted at the corners and then covered with a metal cap. Corner  Boards A type of corner finish that can be used with almost any kind of outside-wall covering is called a corner board.  This  corner  board  can  be  applied  to  the  corner with the siding or shingles end-or-edge-butted against the board. A corner board usually consists of two pieces of stock: one piece 3 inches wide and the other 4 inches wide if an edge-butt joint between the corner boards is used. The boards are cut to a length that will extend from the top of the water table to the bottom of the frieze. They are edge-butted and nailed together before they are nailed to the corner. This procedure ensures a good tight joint (fig. 4-5). A strip of building paper should be tacked over the corner before the corner board is nailed in position (always allow an overlap of paper to cover the subsequent crack formed where the ends of the siding butts against the corner board). Interior  Corners Interior corners (fig. 4-6, view A) are butted against a square corner board of nominal 1 1/4- or 1 3/8-inch size, depending on the thickness of the siding. Mitered  Corners Mitering the corners (fig. 4-6, view B) of bevel and similar sidings is often not satisfactory, unless it is carefully  done  to  prevent  openings.  A  good  joint  must Figure 4-5.-Corner board. fit tightly the  full depth of the miter. You should also treat the ends with a water-repellent preservative before nailing. Metal Corners Metal corners (fig. 4-6, view C) are perhaps more commonly used than the mitered corner and give a mitered effect. They are easily placed over each corner as the siding is installed. The metal corners should fit tightly and should be nailed on each side to the sheathing or  corner  stud  beneath.  When  made  of  galvanized  iron, they should be cleaned with a mild acid wash and primed with a metal primer before the structure is painted to prevent  early  peeling  of  the  paint.  Weathering  of  the metal will also prepare it for the prime paint coat. corner  boards  (fig.  4-5)  of  various  types  and  sizes may be used for horizontal sidings ofaall types. They also provide a satisfactory termination for plywood and similar sheet materials. Vertical applications of matched paneling or of boards and battens are terminated by lapping  one  side  and  nailing  into  the  edge  of  this member, as well as to the nailing members beneath. corner boards are usually 1 1/8 or 1 3/8 inches wide. To give a distinctive appearance, they should be quite narrow.  Plain  outside  casing,  commonly  used  for window and doorframes, can be adapted for corner boards. 4-6







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