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Metal Lath
Lath Accessories

Builder 3&2 Volume 02 - Construction manual for building structures
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DIAMOND MESH.— The terms “diamond mesh” and “expanded metal” refer to the same type of lath (fig. 7-4). It is manufactured by first cutting staggered slits in a sheet and then expanding or stretching the sheet to form the screen openings. The standard diamond mesh lath has a mesh size of 5/16 by 9/16 inch. Lath is made in sheets of 27 by 96 inches and is packed 10 sheets to a bundle (20 square yards). Diamond mesh lath is also made in a large mesh. This is used for stucco work, concrete reinforcement, and  support  for  rock  wool  and  similar  insulating materials. Sheet sizes are the same as for the small mesh. The  small  diamond  mesh  lath  is  also  made  into  a self-furring lath by forming dimples into the surface that hold the lath approximately 1/4 inch away from the wall surface. This lath may be nailed to smooth concrete or masonry surfaces. It is widely used when replastering old walls and ceilings when the removal of the old plaster is not desired. Another lath form is paper-backed where the lath has a waterproof or kraft paper glued to the back of the sheet. The paper acts as a moisture barrier and  plaster  saver. EXPANDED RIB.— Expanded rib lath (fig. 7-4) is like diamond mesh lath except that various size ribs are formed in the lath to stiffen it. Ribs run lengthwise of the lath and are made for plastering use in 1/8-, 3/8-, and 3/4-inch rib height. The sheet sizes are 27 to 96 inches in width, and 5-,10-, and 12-foot lengths for the 3/4-inch rib lath. WIRE MESH.— Woven wire lath (fig. 7-4) is made of galvanized wire of various gauges woven or twisted together  to  form  either  squares  or  hexagons.  It  is commonly used as a stucco mesh where it is placed over tar paper on open-stud construction or over various sheathing. INSTALLATION Let’s now look at the basic installation procedures for  plaster  bases  and  accessories. Gypsum Lath Gypsum  lath  is  applied  horizontally  with  staggered end  joints,  as  shown  in  figure  7-5.  Vertical  end  joints should be made over the center of studs or joists. Lath joints over openings should not occur at the jamb line. Do not force the boards tightly together; let them butt loosel y so the board is not under compression before the plaster  is  applied.  Use  small  pieces  only  where necessary. The most common method of attaching the boards  has  been  the  lath  nail.  More  recently,  though, Figure 7-5.-Lath joints. staples have gained wider use (due mainly to the ready availability of power guns). The nails used are 1 1/8 inches by 13 gauge, flat headed,  blued  gypsum  lath  nails  for  3/8-inch-thick boards and 1 1/4 inches for 1/2-inch boards. There are also  resin-coated  nails,  barbed-shaft  nails,  and screw-type nails in use. Staples should be No. 16 U.S. gauge   flattened   galvanized   wire   formed   with   a 7/16-inch-wide crown and 7/8-inch legs with divergent points  for  3/8-inch  lath.  For  1/2-inch  lath,  use 1-inch-long  staples. Four nails or staples are used on each support for 16-inch-wide  lath  and  five  for  2-foot-wide  lath.  Some special fire ratings, however, require five nails or staples per  16-inch  board.  Five  nails  or  staples  are  also recommended  when  the  framing  members  are  spaced 24 inches apart. Start nailing or stapling 1/2 inch from the edges of the board. Nail on the framing members falling on the center of the board first, then work to either end. This should  prevent  buckling. Insulating  lath  should  be  installed  much  the  same  as gypsum lath except that slightly longer blued nails are used. A special waterproof facing is provided on one type of gypsum board for use as a ceramic tile base when the tile is applied with an adhesive. 7-6







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