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Figure 5-10.Finishing an inside corner.
Figure  5-14.Repairing  a  large  hole  In  drywall.

Builder 3&2 Volume 02 - Construction manual for building structures
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To give yourself the greatest number of decorating options in the future, paint the finished drywall surface with a coat of flat oil-base primer. Whether you intend to wallpaper or paint with latex, oil-base primer adheres best to the facing of the paper and seals it. Renovation  and  Repair For the best results, drywall should be flat against the surface to which it is being attached. How flat the nailing surface must be depends upon the desired finish effect.  Smooth  painted  surfaces  with  spotlights  on  them require as nearly flawless a finish as you can attain. Similarly, delicate wall coverings-particularly those with  close,  regular  patterns—accentuate  pocks  and lumps  underneath.  Textured  surfaces  are  much  more forgiving. In general, if adjacent nailing elements (studs, and so forth) vary by more than 1/4 inch, buildup low spots. Essentially, there are three ways to create a flat nailing  surface: Frame out a new wall-a radical solution. If the studs  of  partition  walls  are  buckled  and  warped, it’s often easier to rip the walls out and replace them.  Where  the  irregular  surface  is  a  load- bearing wall, it maybe easier to build a new wall within the old. Cover  imperfections  with  a  layer  of  3/8-inch drywall. This thickness is flexible yet strong. Drywall   of   1/4-inch   thickness   may   suffice. Single-ply  cover-up  is  a  common  renovation strategy  where  existing  walls  are  ungainly  but basically  flat.  Locate  studs  beforehand  and  use screws  long  enough  to  penetrate  studs  and  joists at least 5/8 inch. Build up the surface by “furring out.” In the Figure  5-12.—Furring  strips  hacked  with  shims. the center of each stud on the existing surface. Here too, mark the depth of low spots. The objective of this process is a flat plane of furring strips over existing studs. Tack the strips in place and add shims (wood shingles are best) at each low spot marked (see fig. 5-12). To make sure a furring strip doesn’t  skew,  use  two  shims,  with  their  thin  ends reversed, at each point. Tack the shims in place and plumb the furring strips again. When you are satisfied, drive the nails or screws all the way in. “furring- out” procedure, furring-strips 1 by 2 inches  are  used.  Some  drywall  manufacturers, however,  consider  that  size  too  light  for attachment, favoring instead a nominal size of 2 by 2 inches. Whatever size strips you use, make sure  they  (and  the  shims  underneath)  are anchored solidly to the wall behind. By stretching strings taut between diagonal comers, you can get a quick idea of any irregularities in a wall. If studs are exposed, further assess the situation with a level held against a straight 2 by 4. Hold the straightedge plumb in front of each stud and mark low spots every 12 inches or so. Using a builder’s crayon, write the depth of each low spot, relative to the straightedge, on the stud. If  studs  aren’t  exposed,  locate  each  stud  by  test  drilling and inserting a bent coat hanger into the hole. Chalk line When attaching the finish sheets, use screws or nails long enough to penetrate through furring strips and into the studs behind. Strips directly over studs ensure the strongest  attachment.  Where  finish  materials  are  not sheets—for  example,  single-board  vertical  paneling— furring should run perpendicular to the studs. Regardless of type, finish material must be backed firmly at all nailing pints, corners, and seams. Where you cover existing finish surfaces or otherwise alter the thickness of walls, it’s usually necessary to build up existing trim. Figure 5-13 shows how this might be done Figure  5-13.—Building  up  an  intertor  window  casing. 5-11







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