4. Place the two brass closet hold-down bolt heads
in the slots of the flange.
5. On the bottom of the water closet, as shown in
view A, figure 5-8, slip the preformed sealing ring over
the horn to form a sealing gasket for the water closet
against the face of the flange. Do not use putty as it will
dry out and leave a possible sewer gas leak.
6. Turn the water closet bowl right side up and set
it on the flange with the horn projecting down into the
flange. In setting the bowl on the flange, as shown in
view B, figure 5-8, guide the two hold-down bolts up
through the bolt holes on either side of the base of the
water closet. Using your full weight, press down and
twist slightly to settle the bowl and the wax ring into
position. The bowl should be perfectly level when
settled. Check for level. If off level, use a wedge.
7. Install nuts on the hold-down bolts and tighten
them alternately. Do not overtighten them as this may
crack the base of the water closet.
8. A wall-mounted water closet, as shown in view
A, figure 5-9, is attached to the wall by a chair carrier,
similar to the one shown in view B, figure 5-9. The chair
carrier is positioned and bolted to the floor. The foot
carries the weight of the entire closet independent of the
walls and drainage connections. A standard fitting is
used to connect between the drain and the closet bowl
after the chair carrier is bolted down. The fittings are for
4-inch iron, lead, or soil pipe. The bolt holes in the chair
carrier are slotted to facilitate installation of the closet
When mounting a close-coupled tank on a closet
bowl, note that two bolts hold the tank on the bowl.
Figure 5-10 shows how. The water supply pipe is
between the bolts and drops the water directly into the
bowl. A specially designed gasket is installed between
the tank and bowl to make the connection waterproof.
The bolts are tightened from underneath the closet
bowl. Do not apply too much pressure when you
tighten these bolts, because you may crack the bottom
of the tank or the back of the bowl.