includes full-width metal subjambs into which the upperand lower sash slide, replacing the parting strip. Stopsare located against these instead of the sash to providea small amount of pressure. The apron is cut to a lengthequal to the outer width of the casing line (fig. 6-35, viewA). It should be nailed to the windowsill and to the 2-by 4-inch framing sill below.When casing is used to finish the bottom of thewindow frame, as well as the sides and top, the narrowstool butts against the side window jamb. Casing shouldthen be mitered at the bottom comers (fig. 6-35, viewB) and nailed as previously described.BASE MOLDINGBase molding serves as a finish between the finishedwall and floor. It is available in several widths andforms. Two-piece base consists of a baseboard toppedwith a small base cap (fig. 6-36, view A). When plasteris not straight and true, the small base molding willconform more closely to the variations than will thewider base alone. A common size for this type ofbaseboard is 5/8 inch by 3 1/4 inches or wider. One-piecebase varies in size from 7/16 inch by 2 1/4 inches to1/2 inch by 3 1/4 inches and wider (fig. 6-36, views Band C). Although a baseboard is desirable at the junctionof the wall and carpeting to serve as a protective bumper,wood trim is sometimes eliminated entirely.Figure 6-36.-Base moldings.Most baseboards are finished with a 1/2-by 3/4-inchbase shoe (fig. 6-36, view A). A single base moldingwithout the shoe is sometimes placed at the wall-floorjunction, especially where carpeting might be used.Square-edged baseboard should be installed with abutt joint at the inside comers and a mitered joint at theoutside comers (fig. 6-36, view D). It should be nailedto each stud with two 8d finishing nails. Moldedsingle-piece base, base moldings, and base shoe shouldhave a coped joint at the inside corners and a miteredjoint at the outside corners. In a coped joint, the firstpiece is square-cut against the plaster or base and thesecond piece of molding coped. This is done by sawinga 45° miter cut and using a coping saw to trim themolding along the inner line of the miter (fig. 6-36, viewE). The base shoe should be nailed into the baseboarditself. Then, if there is a small amount of shrinkage ofthe joists, no opening will occur under the shoe.To butt-join a piece of baseboard to another piecealready in place at an inside corner, set the piece to bejoined in position on the floor, bring the end against ornear the face of the other piece, and take off the line ofthe face with a scriber (fig. 6-37). Use the sameprocedure when butting ends of the baseboard againstthe side casings of the doors.For miter-joining at an outside comer, proceed asshown in figure 6-38. First, set a marker piece ofbaseboard across the wall comer, as shown view A, andmark the floor along the edge of the piece. Then set thepiece to be mitered in place. Mark the point where thewall corner intersects the top edge and the point whereFigure 6-37.-Butt-joining baseboard at inside corners.6-24
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