panels and down through the case bottom. Remove any bow by keeping the toeboard the same distance from the front edge of the bottom all along its length.
14. The back helps hold the case rigid. The case must be absolutely square before fastening the back. Use the Pythagorean theorem to find the diagonals. This will square up the frame.
15. Fasten the back to the end panels, bottom, shelf, and skeleton frame. Straighten any bow when fastening.
16. Fasten the face frame to the front of the case. Keep the top edge of the bottom rails flush with the top surface of the case bottom and the outside stiles flush with the face of the case ends.
All the steps in constructing the base unit apply to constructing the wall unit. However, there are certain steps NOT needed, such as constructing toeboards, openings for drawers, and the installation of a counter top, which we will cover later in this chapter.
Cabinets are constructed in a number of different ways than those described in this unit. Construction depends on the quality desired, the time required, the materials used, and the experience of the craftsmen.
Cabinets may be made of hardwood, plywood, solid hardwood, or a combination of softwood, plywood, and solid softwood lumber. Often particle board is used, sometimes with a vinyl coating on one side to eliminate finishing the inside of the cabinet.
In many cases, the end panels are not dadoed to receive the interior pieces. Skeleton frames are eliminated. The end panels are then held together at the top by the back and face frames. Sometimes the back is not installed and a 1-inch by 3-inch or 1-inch by 4-inch strip is used between the ends at the top, flush with the back edge.
Members of the face frame in lesser quality work are butted against each other. They are fastened together with power-driven corrugated fasteners on the inside of the frame. In some cases, the bottom rail of the frame is eliminated. The front end of the bottom acts as the bottom rail of the face frame.
The cabinetmaker often is required to install kitchen and bathroom cabinets. Cabinets must be installed in a straight, level, and plumb line. This action requires skill because floors and walls are not level or plumb, especially in older buildings.
When cabinets are installed, many installers prefer to mount the wall units first, so work does not have to be done over base units. Let's cover the installation of a kitchen cabinet (fig. 5-12).
The first step in the installation of the wall unit is to locate the bottom of the wall unit (normally 52 inches); then measure up 52 inches from the lowest point of the floor. This usually leaves a 16-inch space between the counter top of the base unit and the bottom of the wall unit. Second, using a level and straightedge, draw a level line from the mark across the wall. The bottom of the wall units are installed to match this line.
Next, you need to locate the wall studs. When a stud is found, mark the location with a pencil; then measure 16 inches in both directions from the first mark to locate the next studs. Drive a finish nail to test for solid wood. If studs are not found at 16-inch intervals, then tap the wall with a hammer to locate each stud or use a stud finder.
At each stud, use a level and draw a plumb line down below the line for the bottom of the wall cabinets. Projecting below the wall units makes it easier to locate the studs when installing both wall and base units.
Then mount a temporary ledger board (1 by 2) to the wall along the bottom of the cabinet line. This action will help level and support the wall unit.
The following procedures are only a guide to installing the wall units:
1. Place the unit on the ledger board or a stand that holds it near the line of installation. If the unit is not level, use wood shims to bring the unit to level.
2. Test the front edge of the unit with a level for plumbness. If the unit is not plumb, shim it between the wall and its back edge with wood shims until it is plumb. If the unit is not plumb to the wall, you need to cut the back edge of the cabinet.
3. Scribe the back edge by riding a set of dividers against the wall and marking the back edge of both end panels to the contour of the wall.Continue Reading