Figure 6-26.—Doorframe and trim.wedged area one driven so that the doorstop covers it.The opposite side jamb is then fastened in place withshingle wedges and finishing nails, using the first jambas a guide in keeping a uniform width.Casings should be nailed to both the jamb and theframing members. You should allow about a 3/16-inchedge distance from the face of the jamb. Use 6d or 7dfinish or casing nails, depending on the thickness of thecasing. To nail into the stud, use 4d or 5d finish nails or1 1/2-inch brads to fasten the timer edge of the casingto the jamb. For hardwood casing, it is advisable topredrill to prevent splitting. Nails in the casing shouldbe located in pairs and spaced about 16 inches apartalong the full height of the opening at the head jamb.Casing with any form of molded shape must have amitered joint at the comers (fig. 6-26, view B). Whencasing is square-edged, a butt joint maybe made at thejunction of the side and head casing (fig. 6-26, view C),If the moisture content of the casing material is high, amitered joint may open slightly at the outer edge as thematerial dries. This can be minimized by using a smallglued spline at the corner of the mitered joint. Actually,use of a spline joint under any moisture condition isconsidered good practice, and some prefitted jamb,door, and casing units are provided with splined joints.Nailing into the joint after drilling helps retain a closefit.The door opening is now complete except for fittingand securing the hardware and nailing the stops inproper position. Interior doors are normally hung withtwo 3 1/2-by 3 1/2-inch loose-pin butt hinges. The dooris fitted into the opening with the clearances shown in6-17
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