screwed to the inside of the case to support the shelf. A through dado or dovetail dado maybe used to support a shelf. A better method is to use a blind dado to conceal the joint.

Adjustable shelves may be supported with metal shelf standards and clips that are either surface-mounted or set flush in grooves. A pair of notched and numbered standards supports the shelves at both sides of the case. They are fastened 1 to 2 inches in from the back and front edges. When they are installed, the same number appears right side up at the bottom of all four standards. The clips can then be inserted in the correct notch, so the shelf lies flat.

Another method of supporting adjustable shelving is by inserting wood dowel pins or commercial shelf pins into four holes at each shelf location. Two vertical rows of equally spaced, 1/4-inch holes are drilled on either side of the case about 1 to 2 inches in from the front and back edges. The holes are spaced approximately 2 inches apart for ordinary work. The holes should be drilled deep enough, so the pins will not fall out when the shelf is placed upon them.

Adjustable shelves are sometimes installed by using ratchet strips. Ratchet strips are strips of wood with notches cut at equal intervals on one edge. These strips are fastened to the front and back edges of the case on the inside. A ratchet cleat is cut to length with ends matching the notches to fit in between the ratchet strips. The ratchet cleat may be moved to any notch to support the shelf.

Another method of making ratchet strips is by boring a series of equally spaced, 3/4-inch holes along strips of 1-inch by 4-inch lumber. The strips are cut in half along the center lines of the holes. Ratchet cleats with rounded ends are then cut to match the ratchet strips.

BOTTOMS AND TOEBOARDS. - The bottom of a case is usually made of solid lumber, particleboard, or plywood, unless a dust panel is used when a drawer is supported by the bottom. Case bottoms are sometimes raised above the bottom rail of the face frame to act as a stop for doors. Another design eliminates the bottom rail of the face frame. The door or drawer then covers all of the bottom edge which also acts as a stop.

To cover the space between the bottom and the floor and to provide toe clearance, install a toeboard. The toeboard is usually set back from the face of the case 2 1/2 to 3 inches. 5-10

Cabinet Facing

After completing the frame construction and shelv- ing, apply finished facing strips to the front of the cab- inet frame. These strips are sometimes assembled into a framework (called a faceplate or face frame) by commer- cial sources before they are attached to the basic cabinet structure. The vertical members of the facing are called stiles, and the horizontal members are known as rails.

As previously mentioned for built-in-place cabinets, you cut each piece and install it separately. The size of each piece is laid out by positioning the facing stock on the cabinet and marking it. Then the finished cuts are made. A cut piece can be used to lay out duplicate pieces.

Cabinet stiles are generally attached first, then the rails (fig. 5-7). Sometimes a Builder will attach a plumb end stile first, and then attach rails to determine the position of the next stile.

Use finishing nails and glue to install facing. When hardwoods are being nailed, drill nail holes where you think splitting might occur.

Face Frames

Face frames are preassembled units, usually joined with dowels, biscuits, or mortise-and-tenon joints, into which drawers and doors are fitted, as shown in figure 5-4. Face frames are joined to cabinet ends with a butt, rabbeted, or mitered joint. The face frame must fit the case accurately, so doors and drawers may be installed easily at a later stage.

If flush doors are to be hung on the face frame, the frame is made about 1/16 inch thicker than the door to

Figure 5-7. - Facing being placed on a cabinet.