Corner Coverings

Builder 3&2 Volume 02 - Construction manual for building structures
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studs, and the total effective penetration into the wood should be at least 1 1/2 inches. For example, 3/8-inch plywood siding over 3/4-inch wood sheathing would require a 7d nail (which is 2 1/4 inches long). This would result in a 1 1/8-inch penetration into the stud, but a total effective penetration of 1 7/8 inches into the wood sheathing. The joints of all types of sheet material should be caulked with mastic unless the joints are of the interlapping or matched type of battens. It is a good practice to place a strip of 15-pound asphalt felt under joints. CORNER COVERINGS The outside corners of a wood-framed structure can be finished in several ways. Siding boards can be miter-joined at the corners. Shingles can be edge-lapped alternately. The ends of siding boards can be butted at the corners and then covered with a metal cap. Corner Boards A type of corner finish that can be used with almost any kind of outside-wall covering is called a corner board. This corner board can be applied to the corner with the siding or shingles end-or-edge-butted against the board. A corner board usually consists of two pieces of stock: one piece 3 inches wide and the other 4 inches wide if an edge-butt joint between the corner boards is used. The boards are cut to a length that will extend from the top of the water table to the bottom of the frieze. They are edge-butted and nailed together before they are nailed to the corner. This procedure ensures a good tight joint (fig. 4-5). A strip of building paper should be tacked over the corner before the corner board is nailed in position (always allow an overlap of paper to cover the subsequent crack formed where the ends of the siding butts against the corner board). Interior Corners Interior corners (fig. 4-6, view A) are butted against a square corner board of nominal 1 1/4- or 1 3/8-inch size, depending on the thickness of the siding. Mitered Corners Mitering the corners (fig. 4-6, view B) of bevel and similar sidings is often not satisfactory, unless it is carefully done to prevent openings. A good joint must Figure 4-5.-Corner board. fit tightly the full depth of the miter. You should also treat the ends with a water-repellent preservative before nailing. Metal Corners Metal corners (fig. 4-6, view C) are perhaps more commonly used than the mitered corner and give a mitered effect. They are easily placed over each corner as the siding is installed. The metal corners should fit tightly and should be nailed on each side to the sheathing or corner stud beneath. When made of galvanized iron, they should be cleaned with a mild acid wash and primed with a metal primer before the structure is painted to prevent early peeling of the paint. Weathering of the metal will also prepare it for the prime paint coat. corner boards (fig. 4-5) of various types and sizes may be used for horizontal sidings ofaall types. They also provide a satisfactory termination for plywood and similar sheet materials. Vertical applications of matched paneling or of boards and battens are terminated by lapping one side and nailing into the edge of this member, as well as to the nailing members beneath. corner boards are usually 1 1/8 or 1 3/8 inches wide. To give a distinctive appearance, they should be quite narrow. Plain outside casing, commonly used for window and doorframes, can be adapted for corner boards. 4-6

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