Figure 5-5.—Single-layer application of drywall.ceilings are 8 feet 1 inch high or less, run wall sheetshorizontally. Where they are higher, run wall sheetsvertically, as shown in figure 5-5.The sides of drywall taper, but the ends don’t, sothere are some layout constraints. End joints must bestaggered where they occur. Such joints are difficult tofeather out correctly. Where drywall is hung vertically,avoid side joints within 6 inches of the outside edges ofdoors or windows. In the case of windows, the bevel onthe side of the drywall interferes with the finish trim,and the bevel may be visible. To avoid this difficulty, layout vertical joints so they meet over a cripple (shortened)stud toward the middle of a door or window opening.When installing drywall horizontally and animpact-resistant joint is required, you should use nailingblocks (fig. 5-5).HandlingThere are several things you can do to makeworking with drywall easier.First, don’t order drywall too far in advance.Drywall must be stored flat to prevent damage to theedges, and it takes up a lot of space.Second, to cut drywall (fig. 5-6), you only need tocut through the fine-paper surface (view A). Then, graspthe smaller section and snap it sharply (view B). Thegypsum core breaks along the scored line. Cut throughthe paper on the back (view C).Third, when cutting a piece to length, never cut tooclosely. One-half-inch gaps are acceptable at the top andthe bottom of a wall because molding covers these gaps.If you cut too closely, you may have difficulty gettingthe piece into place. Also, where walls aren’t square, youmay have to trim anyway.Fourth, snap chalk lines on the drywall to indicatejoists or stud centers underneath attachment is muchquicker. Remember: Drywall edges must be alignedover stud, joist, or rafter centers.Fifth, when cutting out holes for outlet boxes,fixtures, and so on, measure from the nearest fixedpoint(s); for example, from the floor or edge of the nextpiece of drywall. Take two measurements from each5-6
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