Figure 5-8.—Dimpling of gypsum drywall.convex-headed drywall hammers are available for thisoperation, a conventional claw hammer also works(fig. 5-8).SECURING WITH SCREWS.— Because screwsattach more securely, fewer are needed. Screws areusually spaced 12 inches OC regardless of drywallthickness. On walls, screws maybe placed 16 inches OCfor greater economy, without loss of strength. Don’tdouble up screws except where the first screw seatspoorly. Space screws around the edges the same as nails.SECURING WITH ADHESIVES.— Adhesiveapplied to wood studs allows you to bridge minorirregularities along the studs and to use about half thenumber of nails. When using adhesives, you can spacethe nails 12 inches apart (without doubling up). Don’talter nail spacing along end seams, however. To attachsheets to studs, use a caulking gun and run a 3/8-inchbead down the middle of the stud. Where sheets meetover a framing member, run two parallel beads. Don’tmake serpentine beads, as the adhesive could ooze outonto the drywall surface. If you are laminating a secondsheet of drywall over a fret, roll a liquid contact cementwith a short-snap roller on the face of the sheet alreadyin place. To keep adhesive out of your eyes, weargoggles. When the adhesive turns dark (usually within30 minutes), it is ready to receive the second piece ofdrywall. Screw on the second sheet as described above.CEILINGS.— Begin attaching sheets on theceiling, first checking to be sure extra blocking (that willreceive nails or screws) is in place above the top platesof the walls. By doing the ceiling first, you havemaximum exposure of blocking to nail or screw into. Ifthere are gaps along the intersection of the ceiling andwall, it is much easier to adjust wall pieces.Ceilings can be covered by one person using twotees made from 2 by 4s. This practice is acceptable whendealing with sheets that are 8 foot in length. Sheets overthis length will require a third tee, which is veryawkward for one individual to handle. Two peopleshould be involved with the installation of drywall onceilings.WALLS.— Walls are easier to hang than ceilings,and it’s something one person working alone can doeffectively, although the job goes faster if two peoplework together. As you did with the ceiling, be sure thewalls have sufficient blocking in corners before youbegin.Make sure the first sheet on a wall is plumb and itsleading edge is centered over a stud. Then, all you haveto do is align successive sheets with the first sheet. Thefoot lift shown earlier in figure 5-2 is useful for raisingor lowering a sheet while you level its edge. After you’ vesunk two or three screws or nails, the sheet will stay inplace. A gap of 1/2 inch or so along the bottom of a sheetis not critical; it is easily covered by finish flooring,baseboards, and soon. If you favor a clean, modem linewithout trim, manufactured metal or vinyl edges (casingbeads) are available for finishing the edges.During renovation, you may find that hangingsheets horizontally makes sense. Because studs in olderbuildings often are not on regular centers, the joints ofvertical sheets frequently do not align with the studs.Again, using the foot lift, level the top edge of the bottomsheet. Where studs are irregular, it’s even moreimportant that you note positions and chalk line studcenters onto the drywall face before hanging the sheet.5-8
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