Figure 5-8.—Dimpling of gypsum drywall.
convex-headed drywall hammers are available for this
operation, a conventional claw hammer also works
(fig. 5-8).
SECURING WITH SCREWS.— Because screws
attach more securely, fewer are needed. Screws are
usually spaced 12 inches OC regardless of drywall
thickness. On walls, screws maybe placed 16 inches OC
for greater economy, without loss of strength. Don’t
double up screws except where the first screw seats
poorly. Space screws around the edges the same as nails.
SECURING WITH ADHESIVES.— Adhesive
applied to wood studs allows you to bridge minor
irregularities along the studs and to use about half the
number of nails. When using adhesives, you can space
the nails 12 inches apart (without doubling up). Don’t
alter nail spacing along end seams, however. To attach
sheets to studs, use a caulking gun and run a 3/8-inch
bead down the middle of the stud. Where sheets meet
over a framing member, run two parallel beads. Don’t
make serpentine beads, as the adhesive could ooze out
onto the drywall surface. If you are laminating a second
sheet of drywall over a fret, roll a liquid contact cement
with a short-snap roller on the face of the sheet already
in place. To keep adhesive out of your eyes, wear
goggles. When the adhesive turns dark (usually within
30 minutes), it is ready to receive the second piece of
drywall. Screw on the second sheet as described above.
CEILINGS.— Begin attaching sheets on the
ceiling, first checking to be sure extra blocking (that will
receive nails or screws) is in place above the top plates
of the walls. By doing the ceiling first, you have
maximum exposure of blocking to nail or screw into. If
there are gaps along the intersection of the ceiling and
wall, it is much easier to adjust wall pieces.
Ceilings can be covered by one person using two
tees made from 2 by 4s. This practice is acceptable when
dealing with sheets that are 8 foot in length. Sheets over
this length will require a third tee, which is very
awkward for one individual to handle. Two people
should be involved with the installation of drywall on
ceilings.
WALLS.— Walls are easier to hang than ceilings,
and it’s something one person working alone can do
effectively, although the job goes faster if two people
work together. As you did with the ceiling, be sure the
walls have sufficient blocking in corners before you
begin.
Make sure the first sheet on a wall is plumb and its
leading edge is centered over a stud. Then, all you have
to do is align successive sheets with the first sheet. The
foot lift shown earlier in figure 5-2 is useful for raising
or lowering a sheet while you level its edge. After you’ ve
sunk two or three screws or nails, the sheet will stay in
place. A gap of 1/2 inch or so along the bottom of a sheet
is not critical; it is easily covered by finish flooring,
baseboards, and soon. If you favor a clean, modem line
without trim, manufactured metal or vinyl edges (casing
beads) are available for finishing the edges.
During renovation, you may find that hanging
sheets horizontally makes sense. Because studs in older
buildings often are not on regular centers, the joints of
vertical sheets frequently do not align with the studs.
Again, using the foot lift, level the top edge of the bottom
sheet. Where studs are irregular, it’s even more
important that you note positions and chalk line stud
centers onto the drywall face before hanging the sheet.
5-8
