panels with openings whenever possible. If finished panels are to have a grain, stand the panels around the walls and shift them until you have the most pleasing effect in color and grain patterns. To avoid mix-ups, number the panels in sequence after their position has been  established. When cutting plywood panels with a portable saw, mark the layout on the back side. Support the panel carefully  and  check  for  clearance  below.  Cut  with  the saw   blade   upward   against   the   panel   face.   This minimizes splintering. This procedure is even more important  when  working  with  prefinished  panels. Plywood can be attached directly to the wall studs with  nails  or  special  adhesives.  Use  3/8-inch  plywood for this type of installation. When studs are poorly aligned or when the installation is made over an existing surface in poor condition, it is usually advisable to use furring.  Nail  1-  by  3-  or  1-  by  4-inch  furring  strips horizontally across the studs. Start at the floor line and continue up the wall. Spacing depends on the panel thickness.  Thin  panels  need  more  support.  Install vertical strips every 4 feet to support panel edges. Level uneven areas by shimmying behind the furring strips. Prefinished plywood panels can be installed with special adhesive.  The  adhesive  is  applied  and  the  panels  are simply pressed into place; no sustained pressure is required. Begin installing panels at a corner. Scribe and trim the edges of the first panel so it is plumb. Fasten it in place  before  fitting  the  next  panel.  Allow  approximately 1/4-inch clearance at the top and bottom. After all panels are in place, use molding to cover the space along the ceiling. Use baseboards to conceal the space at the floor line. If the molding strips, baseboards, and strips used to conceal panel joints are not prefinished, they should be spray painted or stained a color close to the tones in the  paneling  before  installation. On some jobs, 1/4-inch plywood is installed over a base of 1/2-inch gypsum wallboard. This backing is recommended for several reasons. It tends to bring the studs into alignment. It provides a rigid finished surface. And,  it  improves  the  fire-resistant  qualities  of  the  wall. (The plywood is bonded to the gypsum board with a compatible  adhesive.) HARDBOARD Through special processing, hardboard (also called fiberboard) can be fabricated with a very low moisture absorption rate. This type is often scored to form a tile pattern. Panels for wall application are usually 1/4 inch thick. Since hardboard is made from wood fibers, the panels expand and contract slightly with changes in humidity. They should be installed when they are at their maximum size. The panels tend to buckle between the studs or attachment points if installed when moisture content  is  low.  Manufacturers  of  prefinished  hardboard panels recommend that they be unwrapped and placed separately around the room for at least 48 hours before application. Procedures  and  attachment  methods  for  hardboard are similar to those for plywood. Special adhesives are available as well as metal or plastic molding in matching colors.  You  should  probably  drill  nail  holes  for  the harder types. PLASTIC  LAMINATES Plastic  laminates  are  sheets  of  synthetic  material that are hard, smooth, and highly resistant to scratching and wear. Although basically designed for table and countertops, they are also used for wainscoting and wall paneling  in  buildings. Since plastic laminate material is thin (1/32 to 1/16 inch), it must be bonded to other supporting panels. Contact  bond  cement  is  commonly  used  for  this purpose.   Manufacturers   have   recently   developed prefabricated panels with the plastic laminate already bonded to a base or backer material. This base consists of a 1/32-inch plastic laminate mounted on 3/8-inch particleboard. Edges are tongue and grooved so that units can be blind-nailed into place. Various matching corner and trim moldings are available. SOLID LUMBER PANELING Solid wood paneling makes a durable and attractive interior wall surface and may be appropriately used in nearly  any  type  of  room.  Several  species  of  hardwood and softwood are available. Sometimes, grades with numerous knots are used to obtain a special appearance. Defects, such as the deep fissures in pecky cypress, can also  provide  a  dramatic  effect. The softwood species most commonly used include pine,  spruce,  hemlock  and  western  red  cedar.  Boards range in widths from 4 to 12 inches (nominal size) and are dressed to 3/4 inch. Board and batten or shiplap joints  are  sometimes  used,  but  tongue-and-groove (T&G)  joints  combined  with  shaped  edges  and  surfaces are more popular. 5-14